In August 2009, Benin celebrated its 49th year of independence. For an American whose country was last the colony of another nation 233 years ago, that's pretty impressive. Even from the Latin American perspective, where the colonialists were vanquished nearly 150 years ago, 49 years is an impressively short period of time.

For reference, that means there are plenty of French still alive who remember well when Benin - Dahomey, in those days - was a French possession. A teenager at the time Dahomey became independent would only recently have retired.

Benin's colonial infrastructure has fared less well. It's a sobering trip to walk east from Gran Popo along the shores of the Mono River through what remains of that village's now ancient, colonial architecture. Blame economics, neglect, differing priorities, or the simple avarice of the Atlantic coast's shifting coastline. But the little that remains of France's colonial influence in Gran Popo is not far from oblivion. That makes it an inspiring destination.

These photos are from a trip in 2006. There is a modern village not far from these old, colonial relics, and life goes on in the rhythm of fishing villages everywhere. But the old colonial buildings are just a stone's throw from high tide, and some day, they will be subsumed by the waves. And Benin, independent and upward bound, will come to look upon the colonial period as ancient history.

Old colonial buildings, steps away from oblivion